change wheel FIAT 500 1967 1.G Workshop Manual

The interior of the car can be heated by the engine
warmed air being ducted into the front compartment and
controlled by a lever on the heating system tunnel.
Engine ignition is by a battery, ignition coil and distribu-
tor which is driven by a gear on the camshaft. The engine
is started by an electric starter motor which is mounted on
the gearbox casing and is controlled by a lever located
behind the gearchange lever.
The complete power unit is mounted by a spring support
at the centre of the rear b o d y crossmember and by t w o
rubber pads mounted laterally to the gearbox.
1 :2 Engine removal (sedan—all versions)
To remove the engine from the car proceed as follows:
Raise t h e rear of t h e car and place on firmly based
stands placed under suitable brackets on the underside
of the body.
Disconnect the battery positive terminal clamp from the
battery terminal post. Release the clip securing the main
petrol pipe to the tank sender unit and ease t h e pipe
from the unit. Drain the oil from the engine sump into
a suitably sized container.
D i s c o n n e c t t h e rear number plate light wire (see
FIG 1 : 6) . Release t h e engine compartment lid check
strap from its slot and separate the lid from the body by
sliding the hinge apart.
Remove the cables attached to the ignition coil, also
to the generator and the starter motor. Remove the
starter motor control tie rod.
Release the oil pressure
indicator cable, the main petrol pipeline at the pump,
the accelerator and starting device controls.
Remove the t w o hoses of the heating and cooling
system which are the input hose to the blower and the
hose for the car heating system. Release and lift out the
engine apron. Remove the starter motor mounting bolts
and carefully lift away the motor.
Using a garage hydraulic jack with suitable cradle (see
FIG 1 : 7) or a rope sling relieve the engine weight
from its mountings. Remove the nuts securing the
gearbox to the engine and the flywheel protection
apron.
Remove the bolts fixing the elastic support to the cross-
member. Remove the rear crossmember mounting nuts
noting that the engine earth cable is held by one
mounting nut and lift away the crossmember.
Carefully ease t h e engine away from the gearbox
ensuring that there is no strain placed on the clutch
shaft. Lower the engine to the floor taking care that no
weight is allowed on any of the attachments. 1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
1 :3 Engine removal (station wagon)
To remove the engine from the station wagon proceed
as follows:
1 Raise t h e rear of the vehicle and place on firmly based
stands placed under suitable brackets on the underside
of the body.
2 Disconnect the battery positive terminal clamp from
the battery terminal post. Release the clip securing the
main petrol pipe to the tank sender unit and ease the
pipe from the unit. Drain the oil from the engine sump
into a clean dry container of suitable size.
3 H o l d t h e rear door open and secure using string to stop
it swinging to the closed position. Secure the luggage
compartment floor panel in its upright position.
F50013 4 Remove the cables attached to the ignition coil, also
to the generator and starter motor. Remove the starter
motor control tie rod. Release the o i l pressure indicator
cable, the main petrol pipeline at the pump, the accele-
rator and starting device controls. Disconnect the air
filter housing.
5 Remove the hose connecting the car heating system
to the engine cowling. Disconnect the clip holding the
air pipe to the blower and carefully disconnect the pipe
from the blower cowling. Remove the starter motor
mounting bolts and carefully lift away the motor. FIG 1:5 120.000 engine assembly: cross-section view
through a cylinder

FIG 1:33 Checking crankshaft land-to-connecting rod
shoulder clearance
FIG 1:34 Engine f r o n t end without flywheel
Using an expanding reamer or Fiat reamer U.0307 ease
out the internal diameter of the bush to between .7874
to .7876 inch so that a standard piston may be fitted.
4
Piston-connecting rod assembly:
To assemble the piston to the connecting rod fit the
connecting rod to the piston so that the cylinder identifica-
tion number which is stamped on the connecting rod stem
and cap faces the expansion slot side in the piston as
shown in FIG 1 :32.
Lubricate the piston with engine oil, compress the
piston rings into their grooves and insert the piston con-
necting rod assembly into the cylinder barrel w i t h the
identification numbers facing to the side opposite to the
camshaft as shown in FIG 1 :32.
If one or both connecting rods have been renewed the
new connecting rod cap and body must be stamped w i t h
the cylinder identification number. The figures should be
stamped as shown in FIG 1 :32.
24
FIG 1:35 Camshaft end crankshaft supporting mem-
ber and bearing assembly, and spare main bearing
CRANKSHAFT
SUPPORTING MEMBER
(Camshaft end)
MAIN BEARING
Carefully inspect the crankshaft for minute cracks espe-
cially where there is a change in section. Should there
be any doubt always consult the official agents for
further advice.
Inspect the journals and crankpins. Should score marks
or ovality exist on the journals or crankpins they must
be reground and new undersize bearings fitted.
Undersize main bearings are obtainable in the sizes
.0079, .0157, .0236, .0314, .0394 inch ready fitted in
supports.
Undersize connecting rod bearings are obtainable in the
sizes .01, .02, .03 and .04 inch. The crank should be
reground to match the appropriate bearing undersize.
The clearance between the main bearing to journal
should be .00079 to .00256 inch and the connecting
rod bearing half to crankpin between .00043 to
.0024 inch.
2 1
The special cast iron crankshaft is hollow to allow for
the passage of lubrication oil. It is supported at its ends and
is provided with two cranks and a central counterweight.
The crankshaft plays an important part in the operation of
the lubrication system as its cavity provides a passage for
the oil flowing from the centrifugal filter.
Before inspecting the crankshaft thoroughly clean the
internal passage and drillings as well as the exterior and
then proceed as follows: 1:11 Crankshaft and main bearings Upon reassembly the connecting rod cap nuts must be
tightened to a torque wrench setting of 23.9 Ib ft.

FIG 1 :48 Power plant front support cross-section
FIG 1 :49 Checking the generator and blower drive
belt tension
1 :19 Power plant mountings
The combined power and transmission unit is elastic-
ally mounted on two supports.
The front of the unit rests on a crossmember which is
secured under the car floor through two rubber block
mountings that are bolted to the gearbox casing as
shown in FIG 1 :48. The position of the rubber blocks
on the crossmember is adjustable so that the assembly
can be correctly aligned.
W i t h t h e rear of the unit the engine crankcase is sprung
to the b o d y rear crossmember through an articulated
swinging arm that compresses a coil spring as shown in
FIGS 1 :47 and 1 :49. A rubber bump pad is mounted
inside the spring to give a progressive action.
Whenever the power and transmission unit is being
serviced the condition of the mountings should be
checked and any worn or damaged parts renewed.
1 :20 Adjustment of generator and fan drive belt
The centrifugal oil filter cover/pulley on the crankshaft
transmits the drive through a V-belt to the generator and
centrifugal fan pulley.
32
(b) Engine stalls
1 Check 1, 2, 3, 4, 10, 1 1 , 12, 13, 14 and 15 in (a)
2 Sparking plugs defective or gaps incorrect
3 Retarded ignition 1 Defective coil
2 Faulty distributor capacitor (condenser)
3 Dirty, pitted or incorrectly set contact breaker points
4 Ignition wires loose or insulation faulty
5 Water on sparking plug leads
6 Corrosion of battery terminals or battery discharged
7 Faulty or jammed starter
8 Sparking plug leads wrongly connected
9 Vapour lock in fuel pipes
10 Defective fuel pump
11 Overchoking
12 Underchoking
13 Blocked petrol filter or carburetter jets
14 Leaking valves
15 Sticking valves
16 Valve timing incorrect
17 Ignition timing incorrect
(a) Engine will not start 1 :22 Fault diagnosis
Since its introduction the Fiat new 5 0 0 model has
been continually developed. The main modifications that
have been made are as follows:
1 Heating system safety device
2 Recirculation device for the blow-by gases
3 Cylinder head modified to incorporate item 1
4 Double valve springs fitted
5 Cylinder barrels modified to incorporate item 1
6 Flywheel modified to incorporate new type diaphragm
spring clutch mounting
7 Larger air cleaner container.
Details of these modifications are to be found in the
relevant sections if they necessitate a change in service
overhaul procedure. Other information is to be found in
Technical Data.
1 :21 Modifications
When the V-belt has been correctly adjusted the belt
should sag 13/32 inch under a hand pressure of about 22 lb
as shown in FIG 1 : 4 9.
Should the belt be too slack the generator and
centrifugal fan will not operate at the correct speed
causing overheating and a discharged battery. Also the
belt will slip causing rapid wear of the belt. Conversely
if the belt is too tight excessive loading will be placed
on the generator bearings causing excessive bearing
wear and noisy operation.
To adjust the belt tension proceed as follows:
1 Remove the three nuts ' B ' (see FIG 1 :49) on the
generator pulley and this will split the pulley into two
parts between which are spacer rings.
2 The tension of the belt is increased or decreased by
either reducing or increasing the number of spacers.
3 Place the spacer rings removed from between the
pulley halves on the pulley outer face so that the rings
may be re-inserted when fitting a new belt.
4 Tighten the three nuts to a torque wrench setting of
14.5
lb ft.
Key to Fig 1 :49 A Normal give-in: about 13/32 inch under
a 22 Ib pressure B Nuts securing the pulley halves with
spacer rings

3 Check the layshaft and the primary shaft between
centres and using a dial gauge ensure that there is no
distortion. The out of true reading for bearing seats
should be less than .0008 inch. Inspect the splines and
ensure that the side and outerfaces are not indented.
Replace if there are signs of wear. Also inspect the
reverse shaft to ensure that it is perfectly smooth and
not showing signs of pitting or partial seizure.
4 Carefully inspect all gear teeth for signs of excessive
wear or damage. The contact faces must be smooth and
show no signs of indentation marks. Also check that
the backlash between the gears, when correctly
mounted on the surface plate is not greater than .0039
inch. The maximum wear limit is .0079 inch. Check that
the quick engagement front teeth of the second-, third-
and fourth-speed gears are not damaged or excessively
worn. Renew if there are signs of gearchange lever
misuse.
5 Inspect the sliding sleeves and the relevent hubs, ensure
that all the working surfaces are perfectly smooth. The
clearance between the mating parts should not be
greater than .0059 inch. Also inspect the meshing teeth
and ensure that they are in good condition.
6 Check that the gear shifting selector forks are not dis-
torted and that the striker rods freely slide in their seats
in the gearbox casing.
7 Carefully inspect that all the oil seals are in perfect con-
dition and if there is any doubt they should be renewed.
8 Inspect the striker rod locking balls and the safety rollers
and ensure that they slide freely in their seatings. Also
check the ball load spring efficiency and if this shows
signs of weakness then it should be renewed. Any
faults with these items will cause difficulty in engaging
gears or autodisengagement during engine acceleration.
6 : 4 Reassembly—gearbox
To reassemble the components to the gearbox ensure
that all components are thoroughly clean and then pro-
ceed as follows:
1 Press t h e pinion rear roller bearing onto the layshaft.
Install the layshaft in the casing, and at the same time
fit the adjustment shim, the fourth-speed driven gear
together w i t h its bush, the sleeve and hub for third and
fourth gear engagement, the first-speed and reverse
driven gear and the third-speed driven gear with its
hub.
2 Install the front layshaft ballbearing securing the
bearing retainment plate w i t h the screws and finally
lock the screws in position.
3 Insert the primary shaft together with the first, third
and fourth driving gear train in the gearbox housing
and slide t h e rear bearing onto the shaft. Push the
input shaft forward to enable the clutch shaft coupling
to be inserted in t h e rear and to be pulled up the
primary shaft by means of the pin. Do not forget the
retaining ring.
4 Slide the primary shaft backwards so pushing the rear
bearing into its bore. Refit the front bearing onto the
primary shaft.
5 On the layshaft insert the second-speed driven shaft
and bush, the second gear sliding dog sleeve and the
hub. Also insert the second-speed striker rod and the
first-speed fork. Do not forget to fit the safety roller
into its seating.
70
6 Slide the second-speed driving gear onto the primary
shaft. Place the engagement fork on the third- and
fourth-speed engagement sliding sleeve, and insert
the striker rod, lock the relevent fork and fit the safety
roller.
7 Insert the third safety roller and install the reverse shaft
and insert the reverse gear cluster onto it and secure
the shaft by tightening its block bolt. Install the reverse
striker rod w i t h its relevent fork.
8 Now refit the speedometer drive worm gear onto the
layshraft. Tighten the nuts on the primary shaft and the
layshaft, not forgetting to interpose the plain washer
between the speedometer driving worm and the nut,
to a torque wrench setting of 1 8.1 Ib ft to 25.3 Ib ft
(primary shaft) and 28.9 to 36.2 Ib ft (layshaft). It is
recommended that the input shaft and layshaft are
locked together by engaging t w o gears at the same
time. Finally, fit the splitpins.
9 Lock the shifter forks onto their shafts by tightening
their respective bolts and bend up the special locking
plates. Install the three positioning balls and relevant
springs into their bores and refit the cover plate.
10 Install the casing cover together with its relevant
gasket. This will enable correct positioning of the shift
shaft lever so that it engages in the outer ends of the
shifter shafts protruding from the gearbox casing.
11 Install the speedometer drive support on the gearbox
casing and refit the upper gearbox cover.
For subsequent differential operations and adjustments
see Sections 6:6.
6:5 Dismantling—differential and final drive
For the removal of the differential and final drive unit
from the gearbox refer to Section 6:3. To dismantle the
differential assembly
proceed as follows:
1 Remove the retaining ring 2 (see FIG 6 : 7) retaining
the splined sleeve 4 and slide the sleeve off the drive
shaft.
2 Remove t h e retaining covers 7 and the oil boots all
together with the bushes and seals, adjuster ring lock
rings 13, adjuster rings housing 14, and bearing
adjuster and roller bearing outer races.
3 Separate the differential housing halves by unscrewing
and removing the six bolts that keep both the halves and
the crownwheel together. It is advisable to mark the
respective components to ensure correct matching
upon reassembly.
4 Remove the differential pinion shaft retainer ring, also
the differential pinions 10 by removing the shaft and
withdrawing the two axle shafts 1.
5 Remove the differential side gears 6 and relevent thrust
rings 8.
6 Using a press remove the differential bearing inner
races from their seats on the carrier halves.
7 Thoroughly clean all parts and dry using a compressed
air jet.
Inspection:
The components of the differential unit must be
thoroughly inspected for correct operation and to deter-
mine the presence of any wear, damage or other irregulari-
ties. To check the items concerned proceed as follows:
1 Check thoroughly the idle pinion carrier shaft for signs

Before removing an apparently faulty horn check the
wiring and connections. Check that the mounting bolts
are tight and that the horn does not foul any adjacent part.
Removal and installation:
This is a straightforward operation and the only
precaution to be taken is to ensure that the rubber gasket
bonded to the horn body does not become detached. If
the horn is renewed, before installing the new horn bond
the rubber gasket to the new unit with adhesive in
the same position as was on the original horn unit fitted.
Should the horn fail to operate the following points
should be noted.
1 Damaged horn.
2 Broken connection between battery and horn.
3 Broken connection between horn and push button on
steering wheel
4 Damaged push button mechanism.
5 Directional signal and outer lighting changeover
switch blade contact failing to make contact with the
steering wheel hub ring contact.
6 Current lead displaced from the horn blade contact on
the directional signal and outer lighting switch.
7 Distorted or broken diaphragm in horn.
8 Connections or inner windings
broken or burnt.
9 Electro-magnet contact points dirty or excessively
worn.The contacts may be adjusted by the adjusting screw
after the points have been cleaned and refaced.
To adjust the tone of the horn use a ring spanner and
screwdriver as shown in FIG 11 :23.
It is recommended that if the horn unit operation is
unreliable a new unit should be fitted rather than the
original one repaired.
11:12 Lighting and flasher switch
Description:
The two switches provide a directional signal switch
which automatically returns to the rest position once a
turn has been negotiated and the steering wheel is
brought back to the straight-ahead position. The change
over switch controls the outer lights and the headlights
flasher. The complete unit is located under the steering
wheel on the steering column.
Switch unit removal:
1 Carefully pry off the horn push button at the steering
wheel centre using a fine blade screwdriver.
2 Disconnect the positive terminal of the battery.
3 Disconnect the plug in contact in the steering wheel
hub.
4 Unscrew the steering wheel retaining nut from the
inner column and remove the steering wheel from the
shaft.
5 Slacken the bolts securing the steering column support
to the body
6 Remove the plug in contacts from the switch unit
ensuring that their correct location is noted for re-
assembly.7 Remove the switch unit from the steering column.
124
Switch unit installation:
This is the reverse procedure to dismantling. It is
advisable after installation to check that the steering
wheel when in the straight-ahead position and the
directional signal switch lever in neutral, the reference
index on the outer face of the directional signal switch
drum is in line with the index on the steering wheel hub.
This will ensure correct sequence of operation.
11:13 Fault diagnosis
(a) Battery discharged
1 Lighting circuit shorted
2 Terminals loose or dirty
3 Generator not charging
4 Regulator or cut-out units not working properly
5 Battery internally defective
(b) Insufficient charging current
1 Loose or corroded battery terminals
2 Generator driving belt slipping
(c) Battery will not hold a charge
1 Low electrolyte level
2 Battery plates sulphated
3 Electrolyte leakage from cracked casing or top sealing
compound
4 Plate separators ineffective
(d) Battery overcharged
1 Voltage regulator needs adjusting
(e) Generator output low or nil
1 Belt broken or slipping
2 Regulator unit out of adjustment
3 Worn bearings, loose pole pieces
4 Commutator worn, burned or shorted
5 Armature shaft bent or worn
6 Insulation proud between commutator segments
7 Brushes sticking, springs weak or broken
8 Field coil wires shorted, broken or burned
( f ) Starter motor lacks power or will not operate
1 Battery discharged, loose cable connections
2 Starter pinion jammed in mesh with flywheel gear
3 Starter switch faulty
4 Brushes worn or sticking, heads detached or shorting
5 Commutator dirty or worn
6 Starter shaft bent
7 Engine abnormally stiff
(g) Starter motor inoperative
1 Check 1 in (f)
2 Armature or field coils faulty